Signs of Over-Exfoliated Skin

DRY, ITCHY OR SCALY SKIN

While exfoliation is a great way to clear away dead skin cells and keep the skin feeling smooth and fresh, there is such a thing as too much of a good thing, and over-exfoliating or over scrubbing can lead to dehydrated skin, irritated skin and transepidermal water loss caused by a damaged skin barrier. Let’s dive into how to identify over-exfoliated skin and what you can do to alleviate the effects.

Side effects of over-exfoliating

Exfoliating works by breaking down and removing dead skin cells, helping to even skin texture and promote the skin's natural renewal cycle. If you over-exfoliate, you strip away too much of the skin's natural oils which exposes your skin to aggressors and irritants.

Weakened skin moisture barrier

Excessive exfoliation can damage the outer layer of skin, the stratum corneum, and the moisture barrier protecting the skin. A weakened skin moisture barrier increases the risk of the skin being exposed to bacteria and environmental aggressors. And if the skin moisture barrier keeps being affected it may lead to irritation and worsened skin conditions.

Breakouts

Over-exfoliation can strip away the skin’s natural oils, triggering the sebaceous glands to produce more sebum as overcompensation. This overproduction can lead to clogged pores and unwanted breakouts. Excess scrubbing can also cause bumps and texture to appear on the skin.

Damage to lipid layer

The lipid barrier is critical for locking in moisture and keeping harmful aggressors out. Excessive exfoliation breaks down this essential lipid barrier, leaving your skin defenceless and more prone to skin discomfort. This can appear as tightness in your skin, a waxy appearance due to dehydration.

So how do you know you’re over-exfoliating?

Signs of over-exfoliation

Redness and irritation

Over-exfoliation strips the skin’s protective barrier, removing healthy skin cells and leaving raw, sensitive skin. A little redness immediately following exfoliation isn’t much cause for concern, but if your skin is visibly red and irritated hours after using an exfoliator, cut back on using it.

Dryness and flakiness

A routine heavy on exfoliation can cause a dry, flaky complexion. You may notice dry skin and flaky patches on the face that indicate the skin has been stripped of its moisture barrier. Dry skin can already be uncomfortable, but it can also cause the skin to overproduce sebum to compensate for dehydration, leaving the skin prone to breakouts and blemishes.

Increased sensitivity

Over-exfoliated skin is especially sensitive to irritants and sun exposure. Because you’ve stripped away the protective skin moisture barrier, the new skin is directly exposed to the environment and far more sensitive to aggressors. To manage sensitive skin, it’s important to stick to a fairly minimalist skincare regime, taking care to avoid any products with harsh ingredients.

How to prevent over-exfoliated skin

The best way to treat over-exfoliation is to prevent it in the first place. Here are a few tips to prevent over-exfoliation.

Choose the right exfoliator

First and foremost, choose the right exfoliator for your skin. Exfoliators fall under two categories: chemical exfoliation and physical exfoliation.

Chemical exfoliants

A chemical exfoliator uses alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), beta hydroxy acids (BHA) or a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) to remove dead skin cells by loosening the bonds between cells. Chemical exfoliators are generally recommended for sensitive and dry skin, as they have a lower chance of causing skin irritation. They're also suitable for normal and combination skin types.

Physical exfoliants

Physical exfoliants include facial scrubs and exfoliating tools that work by using granular texture to scrub away dead skin cells. Physical exfoliation can help to temporarily improve circulation in the face which helps to achieve brighter, glowing skin.

Physical exfoliators are best suited for very oily skin or for combination skin needing to address excess oil around the T-zone. For normal and combination skin types, you can alternate between physical and chemical exfoliants., but make sure to only use one at a time, and leave a day between using.

Moisturise

After exfoliation it's important to hydrate your skin to balance out the effects. Follow your exfoliation with a hydrating serum and moisturiser containing humectants to protect your skin from drying out.

How to treat over-exfoliated skin

Stop exfoliating

First off, if you notice any visible signs of over-exfoliation, stop using your exfoliant. You may only need to reduce the frequency of usage, but if your skin has had a very strong reaction you should stop exfoliating until your skin shows considerable improvement.

Apply a gentle skincare routine

Over-exfoliated skin is very sensitive, which is why it's important to implement a gentle, mild skin care routine to help the skin recover. Given that over-exfoliation can dry the skin out, moisturisers, serums and cleansers formulated for dry skin are usually your best bet.

Look for a gentle, unscented cleanser with hydrating benefits, like the Hydrating Cream to Foam Cleanser.
Maintain hydration with serums formulated with humectants, like the Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum.
Look for thicker, repairing moisturisers to restore very dehydrated, cracked or flaky skin. The Advanced Repair Balm is formulated to restore the skin moisture barrier and immediately soothe the skin.

Ingredients to reach for in your gentle skincare routine include:

Speak to a dermatologist

If skin irritation persists, or if you’re unable to alleviate your skin, consult with a dermatologist so they can identify the cause and recommend products to restore the skin moisture barrier.

Listen to your skin

Lastly, the best way to keep your skin balanced is to listen to the signs it’s sending out. Everyone’s skin is different, and what works for some might not work for others. Notice how your skin looks and feels with your regime so you can determine the best way to exfoliate your skin.