Peptides for Skin: Types, Benefits and How to Use

Peptides are small fragments of proteins found in every tissue and cell of the human body. They comprise short chains of amino acids (around 2 to 50 amino acids) linked together by peptide bonds. These protein “fragments” serve many functions; they can signal to enzymes to increase activity, they’re able to bind to specific enzymes to transport to specific parts of the body, and they can inhibit or block specific enzyme activity.

Peptides are naturally occurring in the body but can also be produced synthetically in the form of supplements or skincare products. These synthetic peptides can be especially beneficial when the body’s natural production of peptides starts to decline, particularly as we age. 

There are a few different peptide families with different functions. In terms of skincare, the most important peptides are signal and carrier peptides that promote collagen and elastin production, neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides, enzyme-inhibiting peptides. 

• Signal peptides: A type of collagen peptide, signal peptides work by sending a "signal" to the skin cells (specifically fibroblasts) to increase their collagen and elastin production. Copper peptides are a type of signal peptide commonly found in skincare products.

• Carrier peptides: Another peptide that promotes collagen production, carrier peptides help other active ingredients and enzymes to penetrate to deeper layers of the skin to enhance their skin benefits. 

• Neuropeptides: Dynamic wrinkles are wrinkles caused by repeated contraction of muscles over time. Neuropeptides work within the muscles contributing to these wrinkles to visibly reduce their appearance.

• Enzyme inhibitor peptides: These protective peptides shield existing collagen and elastin from being broken down by other enzymes.

When used consistently, peptides can help address a number of ageing skin concerns and strengthen the skin’s moisture barrier. Peptides benefits include:

• Penetrates deeper layers of the skin for long-lasting skin benefits.  

• Promotes elastin and collagen production that affects the skin’s elasticity and firmness. 

• Antioxidative properties neutralise harmful free radicals formed by environmental aggressors.

• Visibly reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles for a smoother, more even skin texture.

• Helps to relax muscles that contribute to dynamic wrinkles and expression lines.

These skin benefits vary depending on the formulation, peptide concentration and your skin type. This is why choosing the skincare product is important to take advantage of peptides' benefits.

Peptides are highly versatile and can be adapted into various formulations, including serums, moisturisers and creams.

Because they are so versatile, you can fairly seamlessly add peptides into your routine. Here are the most important things to know when using peptides in skincare.

1. Choose the right product

Firstly, make sure you’re choosing the right product for your skin type and skin goals. While peptides are generally suitable for all skin types, the formula, concentration and type of product can make a difference to its efficacy.

2. Apply at the right time

Peptides can be used both morning and night. In the AM, they can help protect your skin from environmental aggressors. In the PM, peptides support your skin's natural renewal process. Again, this will depend on the specific formula, your skin type, and the rest of your skincare routine. 

3. Address specific skin concerns

Try to focus on one skin concern and opt for a peptide formula that addresses it. Certain peptides are better suited to addressing specific skin concerns.

• Fine lines and wrinkles: Look for signal peptides like palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and copper peptides.

• Skin laxity: Collagen peptides, like palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 are the best choice for addressing skin laxity.

• Uneven skin tone: Copper peptides can help to address hyperpigmentation.

• Dehydrated skin: For dehydrated skin, choose peptide formulas that also contain hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid.

4. Gradually introduce peptides

Start with one peptide product and gradually introduce more to avoid overwhelming your skin. You might want to start by adding peptides into your routine 1-2 times a week and increasing this frequency over a few weeks.

5. Layer and pair with the right ingredients

Use other active ingredients to enhance the benefits of your peptide products (we’ll get into this in a little more detail later!).

6. Be consistent

Peptides penetrate deeper layers of the skin and noticeable changes take time and consistent use. Be consistent and patient with your routine.

7. Patch test and listen to your skin

Before starting any new product it's important to patch test and notice how your skin responds. If you notice any skin irritation or sensitivity, stop using the product or reduce frequency of use.

Peptides play well with a range of other skincare ingredients to enhance their anti-ageing and antioxidative properties. You can combine peptides with retinol, vitamin C, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and, of course, ceramides.

Peptides and retinol

Peptides and retinol are two of the most well-known skincare ingredients in anti-ageing products. Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A that helps promote your skin’s cell turnover process, while peptides help to promote collagen and elastin production. The two work in unison to support the skin’s natural cell renewal process for firmer, supple skin.

Peptides and vitamin C

Peptides provide similar antioxidant properties to vitamin C, so combining the two enhances the benefits. Environmental aggressors, including UV rays and pollution, lead to the formation of harmful free radicals that can break down collagen and elastin, and antioxidants neutralise these free radicals to protect the skin for brighter, more youthful-looking skin. 

Peptides and niacinamide

Niacinamide is a vitamin B3 derivative that breaks down melanin (pigment cells) to help visibly fade existing hyperpigmentation. It also promotes the production of lipids to strengthen the skin’s moisture barrier. Using the two ingredients together provides combined anti-ageing power, addressing age spots, fine lines and wrinkles.

Peptides and hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid is a type of humectant that soaks up and locks in moisture to keep the skin nourished. When combined with peptides, this ingredient helps address fine lines and wrinkles that may be exacerbated by a weakened moisture barrier and skin dehydration.

Peptides and ceramides

Ceramides are lipids naturally found in the outermost layer of skin that form the skin’s protective moisture barrier. Combined with peptides, ceramides provide essential hydration that allows peptides to penetrate deeper into skin for more long-lasting skin benefits. Ceramides can also help to offset any potential dryness that may be caused by peptides.

Peptides are generally well-tolerated by all skin types, but there are some potential side effects that can occur.

• Skin irritation: Higher concentrations of peptides, and products containing other potentially irritating ingredients (like retinol or acids) can irritate sensitive skin that can manifest as visible redness, dryness or itchy skin. You can prevent this by patch-testing and starting with a low concentration.

Breakouts: Peptides found in heavy creams or oil-based formulas may be comedogenic, leading to clogged pores that can trigger breakouts. You can mitigate this by choosing a non-comedogenic product, or opting for lightweight formulas suitable for oily or blemish-prone skin.