How to Use Retinol: A Beginners Guide

What is retinol?

Retinol is a type of vitamin A derivative that’s added to skincare products. It works by penetrating layers of the skin to target ageing skin concerns, like skin texture, fine lines and wrinkles, skin elasticity, and hyperpigmentation. It comes in the form of cream, gel or serum and is available in varying concentrations.

What are the benefits of retinol?

Because it both impacts the surface layers of the skin and penetrates deeper layers of the skin, retinol can address a number of skin concerns. The main benefits of retinol include:

• Speeds up the skin cell turnover to reveal fresher, smoother skin.
• Visibly reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
• Promotes collagen production for skin elasticity and suppleness.
• Helps manage excess sebum production that can clog pores.
• Visibly fades post-blemish marks and uneven skin tone.
• Breaks down pigmentation that forms dark patches and age spots.

When should you start using retinol?

The natural skin cell turnover and collagen production begins to decline around the age of 25, and visible signs of ageing usually become more pronounced around your 30s. To combat this, you might choose to introduce a retinol serum to your routine in your late 20s or early 30s, but there is no definitive age that you should start using retinol. Speak to a dermatologist to discuss your skin goals if you’re unsure.

7 tips for beginners starting retinol

1. Start slowly

Retinol can lead to sensitive skin and irritation, which is why you should gradually introduce the product. Patch test first, applying a small amount to a small patch of skin and waiting 24 hours to see for reaction. Start by applying retinol 1-2 times a week, applying at night, and ideally using a product with a low concentration. As your skin gets used to the product you can increase the frequency up to daily use.

2. Sun sensitivity

Retinol causes increased sensitivity to UV exposure, which means an increased risk of UV damage. This is why it's usually recommended to use retinol in your evening routine, and why daily sun protection is essential. Always finish your morning skincare routine with a broad-spectrum, high SPF sunscreen.

3. Keep skin hydrated

To manage the skin-drying effects of retinol, combine with hydrating products, like hyaluronic acid serums and rich night creams. This will help restore moisture in the skin, strengthen the protective moisture barrier and restore facial volume that declines as we age.

4. Use the sandwich method

If you have sensitive skin, try the sandwich method in your retinol routine. After cleansing, apply a thin layer of moisturiser or hydrating serum, then apply retinol, then follow with another layer of moisturiser or serum. 

5. Pair with complimentary ingredients

To enhance skin benefits, pair retinol with other active ingredients. A retinol cream or serum works well with the below ingredients:

• Hyaluronic acid: This humectant supports retinol’s anti-ageing benefits by absorbing moisture to visibly fill in fine lines and wrinkles while strengthening the skin moisture barrier.
• Niacinamide: This ingredient helps to visibly fade dark spots and tighten pores to even out skin texture and skin tone, complimenting retinol’s skin renewing benefits.
• Vitamin C: These two ingredients work to both visibly reduce ageing skin concerns while preventing photoageing from free radicals. Remember to alternate between vitamin C and retinol serums: use vitamin C in the morning and retinol in the evening.
• Exfoliating acids: Because retinol speeds up skin cell turnover, it can cause a build-up of dead skin cells that can lead to clogged pores and breakouts. To aid this, add a chemical exfoliant to your routine, such as lactic acid, glycolic acid or salicylic acid. But, similar to vitamin C, alternate between exfoliants and retinol to prevent irritation.

6. Be consistent

Retinol isn't a quick-fix solution; for noticeable results, retinol requires consistent use and time. Because the product penetrates deeper layers of the skin, it can take 2-3 months before you notice any changes to your skin, so be patient!

7. Monitor for side effects

Retinol can cause dry skin, irritation and skin redness. This is a normal response to the product, and should go away after a few weeks, and gradually introducing retinol products helps minimise these side effects. If your skin is very sensitive or if side effects don't go away over time, cut back on retinol usage for a week. If your skin condition improves, increase the frequency again.